真丝织物天然染料染色综述.docxVIP

研究与技术DOI: 10． 3969 / j． issn． 1001-7003． 2014． 01． 007真丝织物天然染料染色综述陈秀芳，金隽，唐林( 安徽职业技术学院 纺织系，合肥 230011)摘要: 回顾了中国天然染料及其对真丝织物染色的历史，介绍了近年来各种天然染料如茶叶、茜草、 艾蒿等对真丝织物染色的研究进展，分析了真丝织物天然染料染色在来源和价格、结构和性能、染色 牢度及色谱等方面存在的问题，并针对这些问题提出了利用生物技术开发天然染料新资源，补充色 谱; 完善天然染料的提取工艺，从植物的根、茎、叶、花和果实，以及其他工业生产的废料中获得染料， 降低成本; 研究天然染料的化学结构、染色原理和保健功能; 探索新的染色工艺，寻找新的媒染剂，在 提高染色牢度和得色量的同时减少对环境的污染。认为真丝织物天然染料染色具有良好的发展 前景。关键词: 真丝织物; 天然染料; 染色; 媒染剂; 色牢度中图分类号: TS193． 6文献标志码: A文章编号: 1001-7003( 2014) 01-0031-06Dyeing of Silk Fabrics with Natural DyesCHEN Xiufang，JIN Jun，TANG Lin( Department of Textile Engineering，Anhui Vocational and Technical College，Hefei 230011，China)Abstract: This paper reviews the history of dyeing of silk fabrics with Chinese natural dyes，introduces the progress of research on dyeing of silk fabrics with various natural dyes such as tea leaf，madder and felon herb in recent years， analyzes problems of dyeing of silk fabrics with natural dyes in source，price，structure，performance，dyeing fastness and chromato gram and puts forward the use of biotechnologies to develop new resources of natural dyes and supplement chromato gram in allusion to these problems; improves the extraction process of natural dyes to obtain dyes from the root，stem，leaf，flower and fruit of fabrics and waste materials in other industrial production and reduce the cost; studies the chemical structure，dyeing principle and healthcare function of natural dyes; explores new dyeing process and seeks for new mordant so as to improve dyeing fastness and color yield and meanwhile reduce environmental pollution; and thinks that dyeing of silk fabrics with natural dyes has a good development prospect． Key words: silk fabric; natural dye; dyeing; mordant; color fastness中国丝绸的历史源远流长。在合成染料出现之 前，真丝织物一直采用天然染料染色。合成染料具 有色谱齐全、染色方便、染色色牢度较高等优点，但 部分染料特别是用于真丝染色的直接染料、酸性染 料等因含有或在一定条件下分解释放致癌芳香胺而 被禁用，有些染料还含有重金属元素，对生态环境和 人体健康不利。近年来，中国政府对生态纺织品、功收稿日期: 2013-03-18; 修回日期: 2013-10-30作