服装衣袖造型设计的影响因素.doc

服装衣袖造型设计的影响因素 黄石理工学院08服本2班 韩立栋 目 录 1、衣袖的分类与基型构成·············································· 1-1衣袖的分类··················································· 1-2衣袖基型构成················································· 2、衣袖的结构分析····················································· 2-1袖山························································· 2-2袖围、袖山和袖窿的关系········································ 2-3袖山吃（曲）势················································· 2-4基型袖的变化················································· 2-5袖山弧线形态、袖折线位置及袖口定位关系························ 2-6袖山斜线长度与袖山切线的确定································· 3、配袖的方法························································· 3-1原型配袖法··················································· 3-2基型配袖法··················································· 4、衣袖造型设计的要点················································· 4-1服装品种特点················································· 4-2穿着地域、环境与场合·········································· 结束语······························································ 参考文献····························································· 1、衣袖的分类与基型构成 1-1衣袖的分类 衣袖的款式繁多，根据不同的观察角度，可分为： 以穿着服装的内外层次关系分类，可分为内衣袖、上（外）衣袖和大衣袖等多种。 以修片构成数量分类，可分为一片袖、两片袖、和多片袖。 以袖子的长度分类，可分为冒肩袖、短袖、肘上袖（中袖）、肘下袖（长中袖）和长袖等如图1。 以袖片得结构形式分类，可分为圆装袖、套装袖、连袖和花式袖等。如图2。 1-2衣袖基型构成 1.衣袖主要辅助线 袖中线上平线袖山身线袖长线前肘线前袖山斜线后袖山斜线前袖线前袖折线后袖线后袖折线 如图3 2.衣袖主要结构点与轮廓线 袖山高点前袖谷点前袖肘点袖中点前袖点前袖里点后袖谷点后袖肘点袖大点后袖里点袖山弧线前袖底弧线后袖底弧线袖中线前袖缝线前袖折线后袖缝线后袖折线袖口弧线袖肘省 如图4 2、衣袖的结构分析 2-1袖山 袖山高度直接影响衣袖的合体和宽松程度，袖山高是由袖窿深、装袖角度、装袖位置、垫肩厚度、装袖缝型、衣料厚薄等因素决定的。 袖窿深 袖窿深应在人体腋窝下方，根据衣着层次、款式特征决定袖窿深开的程度，袖窿深线将衣袖分成袖山高和袖下长两部分，袖山高于袖窿深是相互对应的关系。 装袖位置 人体的肩部是球面状，没有明确的肩宽点，只能凭感觉和经验确定肩宽点，即使确定了肩宽点，也会因款式的要求、装袖的位置有所不同，有的款式袖山包含着肩宽量，有的款式装修缝超过肩宽点覆盖在臂上部。 装袖角度 装袖角度即衣袖成型的角度。衣袖成型选择哪一个角度取决于衣袖的宽松程度，宽松的衣袖袖山低，衣袖下垂时会产生褶皱；合体的衣袖袖山较高，上肢活动时会有一定的牵制感。手下垂时。衣袖的成型较为美观。 垫肩高度 服装放入垫肩以后，袖窿相对变深，肩斜度相对减少，即肩斜线抬高，抬高量约为0.7cm垫肩厚度，如果要保持原有的装袖效果，袖山要在原来的基础上增高0.8-0.9cm的垫肩厚度。 装袖缝型和衣料厚薄 装袖的缝份有的倒向衣身，有的倒向衣袖，也有的将缝份分开倒向各自一边。一般服装的装袖缝均是倒向衣袖一侧。袖缝的倒向会使衣料产生一定的座势量，对于不同厚薄的衣料，袖山