第六章__纺织品整理.pptVIP

第六章 纺织品整理 防蛀整理 羊毛衫的虫蛀是常见的一种现象。虫蛀不仅影响羊毛衫的穿着美观，而且与其一起存放的毛制品，亦会受到影响。 羊毛纤维的成分主要是蛋白质和少量脂肪，是蛀虫喜爱的“营养品”，从这个角度来看，羊毛衫虫蛀是必然的。但是要防蛀，首先要改善羊毛衫收藏存放的环境。干净和干燥是蛀虫难以生存的关键。 Mothproofing Fibers containing protein, such as the keratin in wool, are susceptible to damage by moths and carpet beetles. The cystine amino acid residues in keratin are more vulnerable to moth attack than is the fibroin of silk. Carpet beetles, on the other hand, will eat keratin, fibroin, and some additional protein substances. 防蛀整理剂 蛀虫：衣蛾、皮蠹虫等，它们在温暖气候下活动和繁殖。（20~30度，70~90%相对湿度，它们在吃完羊毛织物上的残留物后，继续蚕食羊毛纤维，使好好的羊毛织物出现一个个小洞。） 防蛀剂： 熏蒸剂---对二氯苯、萘、樟脑。（利用其挥发性杀死蛀虫，常用于密闭容器中保存或储藏羊毛制品，但他们逐渐挥发完后，就失去防蛀作用） 触杀剂---氯苯乙烷（DDT）（这是一种有效的触杀剂，溶于汽油或用乳化剂后喷洒到织物上，杀虫力强，但不耐洗，且会引起公害。） 食杀剂---除虫菊酯。（该类防蛀剂对人体无害，幼虫食后不消化而死亡，可以和染料同浴使用，也可以合成，故发展很快） 1~3%，30~40℃，5~10min. Softening Softening agents are used frequently to improve the hand and drape of fabric. The most commonly used softeners are oils, fats, wax emulsions, soaps and synthetic detergents, substituted ammonium compounds, and silicone compounds. The silicone compounds produce relatively durable softening. Stiffening Sizings, contribute temporary stiffness to fabrics. A comparatively durable stiffness can be built into woven or knitted fabric through the use of thermosetting resins or plastic compounds of varied types. They may be used to keep sheer fabrics crisp and prevent sagging and slipping of yarns. Stiffeners reduce the formation of lint and help maintain a surface that is resistant to snags and abrasion. 增重整理 先将织物经四氯化锡溶液处理 SnCl4+4H2O→Sn(OH)4+4HCl 水洗后再用磷酸氢二钠处理 Sn(OH)4+Na2HPO4 →Sn(OH)2HPO4 最后在硅酸钠溶液中处理 Sn(OH)2HPO4+3Na2SiO3 →(SiO2)3SnO2+Na3PO4+3NaOH 反应过程中形成的锡硅氧化物沉积于丝纤维中引起增重，其他中间产物大多经水洗除去． 增重效果 经锡盐增重处理后，丝织物不但重量增加，而且较为挺括，悬垂性提高，手感也丰满一些，但对光氧化比较敏感，且强伸度和耐磨性受到一定影响． Durable Press The introduction of true durable (permanent ) press occurred in the early 1960s. Several processes and finishes were introduced, but dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea (DMDHEU) was the most successful. Fabrics c