Sterling Walking Beam Engine boydhouse（英镑boydhouse步进梁引擎）.pdfVIP

Stirling Walking Beam Engine By Darryl Boyd This is a set of plans for a Stirling “hot” air engine. It incorporates a “walking beam” to transfer mechanical actions from one part of the engine to the other. The walking beam is on the upper half of the engine and looks like an old weight scales. Walking beams were quite common on early steam engine of the 1800’s. Caution should be used when building this project. Hazards exist while building any mechanical device and care must be taken during construction and use. We do not assume any liability for damage resulting in the use of the enclosed material. Things to keep in mind while building and attempting to run for the first time. Friction is this engines biggest enemy. It hates anything being too tight. The bearings have to be loose. Sloppy is better than close tolerances. If you are running the shafts and rods in the wood (I now don’t recommend this), it’s better to be loose and oiled very well. Friction becomes more of an issue if no bearings are used. I recommend bearings made of brass tubing and sloppy on the shafts. The piston (1) should fit loose in the cylinder, not tight. This is not a situation where the piston needs to be tight like in an internal combustion engine. It is better to loose some pressure and vacuum that to create too much friction. If it is loose, oil it well (see oiling below) before running. This will help seal the piston without causing too much friction. The lighter the piston, the better also. I make my pistons from 1 alum. rod drilled out in the back. This will slide into 1 copper pipe very nice. I have been told that brake cylinder pistons work very good. Oiling and lube. You can lube the piston cylinder and the rods and moving parts with a very light oil like WD40 or 3 in 1 oil, but if you use 30 wt oil or something heavy, It will not run. I oil the power cyl. with WD40 and use 3 in 1 oil (sewin