佳酿泛绿—唐、宋代中国内地的“葡萄酒”酿造.docVIP

佳釀泛綠—唐、宋代中國內地的“葡萄酒”釀造 ? ?於: 十月 16, 2007, 21:09:20 pm ? Vinous Brewage in Inland China in Tang and Song Dynasties王頲 撰2006-08-18/data/articles/a02/1569.html【內容提要】????自西漢武帝開通“西域”以來，“葡萄”便被引入中國，廣泛種植。可是，由這種果實釀造的“美酒”，卻要到唐初以後，始得在“玉門”、“陽”二關以東生產。 一時間，河西的“涼州”、河東的“并州”，成爲“內地”生産“葡萄酒”的主要地點。不久，“并州”即緣“涼州”的失陷而“一枝獨秀”。進入趙氏統治以後， 顔色泛綠的該酒成爲時尚，而製作方法也得以在時人記載中見到。迄於南渡，隨著“葡萄”栽培的普及，“葡萄酒”的釀造也在南中國得以延續。而在北中國，迨金 末年，慘烈的戰爭導致北中國“葡萄酒”釀造的中衰。至於“酒”與“原料”産量的比例失調，乃在於時人更多地將“葡萄”視爲美味的“佳果”。Abstract: Since the emperor Han Wudi sent the envoys to Xi Yu, grape had been brought to and planted widely in China. However, the wine made of the fruit could not be made in the areas east to two passes of Yumen and Yang till early Tang. There were the main places of brewing wine both Liangzhou in Hexi and Bingzhou in Hedong at that time. Very soon Bingzhou was uniquely famous because Liangzhou was lost. During North Song, the nice green wine had become a fashion and the facture how to make it could be seen in the existent records. And when the court went southwards, the technique of brewage was spread in Southern China while the growth of grape was spread just the same. At the end of Jin, the wine production came down in Northern China because of the disastrous war. And the indirect proportion of the quantities of the wine and grape might ascribe to the fact that most people then took grape nothing but one kind of delicious fruits. 一????早在西漢武帝在位期間，東方的中國人，即已知悉“葡萄酒”。截至東漢末年，以“葡萄酒”而馳名的産地，仍大都位於“蔥嶺”、今帕米爾迤西。其中，尤以在今 烏茲別克費爾干納（Fergana）州的“大宛”、卡拉卡爾派克（Karakalpak）共和國的“奄蔡”、今伊朗法爾斯（Faars）省的“安息”等地 爲最。《史記》卷一二三〈大宛列傳〉：“大宛在匈奴西南，在漢正西，去漢可萬里。其俗土著，耕田，田稻、麥，有蒲陶酒”。“安息在大月氏西可數千里，其俗 土著，耕田，田稻、麥，蒲陶酒”。“宛左右以蒲陶爲酒，富人藏酒至萬餘石，久者數十歲不敗。俗嗜酒，馬嗜苜蓿。漢使取其實來，於是，天子始種苜蓿、蒲陶肥 饒地，及天馬多。外國使來衆，則離宮別觀旁，盡種蒲萄、苜蓿極望”。 [1]《後漢書》卷八八〈栗弋傳〉：“栗弋國屬康居，出名馬、牛、羊、蒲萄衆果，其土水美，故蒲萄酒特有名焉”。 [2]《通誌》卷一九六〈四夷西戎〉：“奄蔡，出名馬、牛、羊、蒲萄衆果。其土水美，故蒲萄酒特有名焉”。 [3]《金樓子》卷五〈誌怪篇〉：“大月氏國善爲蒲萄花葉酒，或以根及汁醞之。其花似杏，而緑蕊碧須。九春之時，萬頃競發，如鸞鳳翼。八月中，風至吹葉 上，傷裂，有似綾紈。故風爲蒲萄風，亦名裂葉風也”。 [4]????迄於南北朝，“蔥嶺”迤東也已成爲“葡萄酒”製作的奧區。其中，涵在今新疆庫車縣的“龜茲”