SILVER SOLDERING TIPS topnotchkits（银钎焊技巧topnotchkits）.pdfVIP

SILVER SOLDERING TIPS If you have been modeling for a while you have probably had to do some non-electronic soldering at one time or another. The best candidate for this is Silver Solder. Not to be confused with radio or electronic solder, which is intended for soldering electronic components and has very little strength compared to silver solder. Radio solder usually has a rosin core to eliminate the need for additional flux so if your solder has a core in it, it’s not what you want for soldering that landing gear. Silver solder can be used to join brass, copper, steel, tin and some other metals. Unfortunately Aluminum is not one of these. Over the years I have tried several so called aluminum solders but did not find any of these to do an acceptable job. The requirements for a good silver solder job are clean materials, a good mechanical connection, good flux and the correct application of heat and then a good post cleaning. It’s just about impossible to assemble wire parts in the air so I usually make some type of jig to hold the parts firmly in the position I want. This can be anything from a bench vice to C-clamps. CLEAN THE PARTS If you are going to use piano wire you will need to degrease it first. This can be accomplished by wiping it down with denatured alcohol until it is removed. When the wire is manufactured it is lubricated with a type of grease to prevent die wear, this material is left on the wire to prevent it from rusting. After the lubrucant is removed you will need to remove a layer of oxide with fine (320 grit) sand paper until nothing but shiny metal remains. GOOD MECHANICAL CONNECTION Clean parts are an absolute must for good solder adhesion, here the music wire parts have been de greased and sanded to a shiny finish.