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葡萄酒第五章 1 葡萄酒生物技术链
* * 葡萄酒的质量很显然是我们追求的目标。但是,什么是葡萄酒的质量呢?一个优质的葡萄酒,一个好酒,应是喝起来让人舒适的葡萄酒。葡萄酒的质量,应是其令消 费它的人满意的特性的总体。因此,葡萄酒的质量是一个很主观的概念,它决定于每一个消费者的感觉能力、心理因素、饮食习惯、文化修养和环境条件等。这说明 葡萄酒的质量无论在时间上还是在空间上都是多维的和变化的。我们现在喝的葡萄酒不是我们前辈所喝的葡萄酒;北方的人与南方人具有不同的口味。所以,葡萄酒 的质量只有通过消费者才能表现出来,而且受消费者的口味和喜好的影响。 * 摆在葡萄酒工艺师面前的问题是,如何使自己的产品适应各种消费者的口味。这就需要确定葡萄酒质量的各种构成因素,并通过对原料和酿造工艺的选择来达到这一目标。葡萄酒质量的构成因素有那些呢?无论其风格如何,所有喝起来舒适的葡萄酒都有一个共同的特征,即它们表现出平衡,一种在颜色、香气、口感之间的和谐。平 衡,是葡萄酒质量的第一要素:所有消费者都不会喜欢某一种感觉(酸、苦、涩)过头,他们喜欢葡萄酒不涩口,丰满,后味良好。所以,平衡是消费者对所有葡萄 酒的最低质量要求。葡萄酒质量的第二个要素是风格,即一种葡萄酒区别于其它葡萄酒所独有的个性。这一层次是那些追求个性的消费者所要求的,也是最佳的质 量。因此,真正的优质名酒首先必须平衡,而且应具有其独特而优雅的风格。 * The first targeted definition of wine quality that we will consider is regional typicity. In this case the wine shows the characters and traits that have been defined as typical for that region. For example, in many areas of France there is a certain expected composition of wines produced from specific regions. The rating system of wine is dependent upon nearness to what is defined as typical for fruit from that region. In most cases the judgment of whether or not a particular wine or vintage is worthy of the regional designation rests with a regional or government body, not the original producer. The beauty of this system is that it safeguards the character of the wine for the consumer, and guarantees a certain nearness to an ideal composition. The second targeted definition of quality concerns varietal typicity. The goal here is to produce a wine that best showcases the characters specific to that varietal, in other words, is the best wine that it is possible to make while retaining a strong varietal signature. Obviously varietal styles of wine are restricted to those varietals that are pleasingly complex at the time of harvest, not requiring significant chemical adjustment that can only be achieved by blending. The last targeted definition of quality is true to style - style may mean a style that someone else has developed and that is generally regarded as typical for that varietal or
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