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TED演讲【从时装的自由文化里学到的】20151118【内含中英文对照演讲稿】.pdf
00:12 I heard this amazing story about Miuccia Prada. Shes an Italian fashion designer.
She goes to this vintage store in Paris with a friend of hers. Shes rooting around, she
finds this one jacket by Balenciaga -- she loves it. Shes turning it inside out. Shes
looking at the seams. Shes looking at the construction . Her friend says, Buy it already.
She said, Ill buy it, but Im also going to replicate it. Now, the academics in this
audience may think, Well, that sounds like plagiarism. But to a fashionista, what it
really is is a sign of Pradas genius: that she can root through the history of fashion and
pick the one jacket that doesnt need to be changed by one iota, and to be current and to
be now.
00:56 You might also be asking whether its possible that this is illegal for her to do this.
Well, it turns out that its actually not illegal. In the fashion industry, theres very little
intellectual property protection. They have trademark protection, but no copyright
protection and no patent protection to speak of. All they have, really, is trademark
protection, and so it means that anybody could copy any garment on any person in this
room and sell it as their own design. The only thing that they cant copy is the actual
trademark label within that piece of apparel. Thats one reason that you see logos
splattered all over these products. Its because its a lot harder for knock-off artists to
knock off these designs because they cant knock off the logo . But if you go to Santee
Alley, yeah . (Laughter) Well, yeah . Canal Street, I know. And sometimes these are fun,
right?
01:53 Now, the reason for this, the reason that the fashion industry doesnt have any
copyright protection is because the courts decided long ago that apparel is too utilitarian
to qualify for copyright protection. They didnt want a handful of designers owning the
seminal building blocks of our clothing. And then everybody else would have to license
this cuff or this sleeve because
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